“I want to do something extreme,” says UCA graduate Beekay, of his first collection. The Pakistani-born menswear designer debuted his Spring/Summer 09-10 collection at 080 Barcelona Fashion Week and On|Off for London Fashion Week. It features kilts, hoods and combat boots. He explains: “It’s an extended version of the collection from my university.” By mixing textures and cultures, Beekay achieves a diverse and engaging look, far from the clothes he grew up with in Lahore. “The strong culture of Pakistan made me go against it,” explains Beekay. His premier collection is rebellious and aggressive.
Burhan Khan or Beekay as he prefers to be known is a self confessed workaholic. “There's still a huge market to be taken, especially in menswear,” the young designer explains. He spent three seasons with women’s-wear label Aminaka Wilmont; a Scandinavian duo who put an emphasis on shape and silhouette. This experience gave Beekay great ambition and a head for business, not to mention a love for his signature material; leather. He has plans to eventually show his designs on the couture catwalks of Paris.
Naming his first collection ‘Post- Apocalypse’ it is clear to see Beekay is inspired by everything around him, “music and movies play a huge part in my designs” he says. With a slim silhouette, harem trousers and hoods his clothing has undertones of apocalyptic cinema.
Beekay’s Autumn/Winter 2010 work was recently shown at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. He uses latex-cindered denim, Lycra and leather to produce a New-age masculinity. He takes his inspiration for this collection from trees “I wanted to challenge myself by using a very simple starting point,” says the young designer. Behind the collections dystopian and almost fetishist aesthetics are clothes that provide comfort and movement. “I don't want to create anything which I wouldn't wear or feel comfortable in,” he explains. Uniqueness and wearability are paramount to Beekay.
The entirely black collection is deceiving; on closer inspection the intricate detailing becomes obvious with twisted, distressed leather and an abundance of YKK zips. The inspiration of the “tree” is seen in the print on the t-shirts and in the natural round shapes created by the hoods and the panelling.
“I believe in every individual creating his/her own fashion statement,” says the young designer. His next collection is sure to make a statement with rumours of “bugs” being the inspiration. Beekay creates conceptual and innovative designs of the highest degree, his pieces are intricate, powerful and meticulously designed. Beekay juxtaposes industrial themes with flowing and wearable fabrics for an alluring androgyny.
Beekay’s work exudes the ‘London cool’ exterior so many menswear designers strive for. “Using leather comes naturally to me,” he states. Mixing materials and keeping a dark palette give a grungy and futuristic feel to his brand. Beekay is comparable with Julius, a Japanese menswear label that utilizes the colour black extensively. “I just love what he does” says Beekay of Tatsuro Horikawato the designer behind the label Julius. Both of the designer’s work is moody, experimental yet accessible.
“Making people feel good about themselves” Beekay claims, is what he does. Although not stocked anywhere yet, this menswear designer has the skills and ideas to take him far. With his black colour palette, intense and energetic designs Beekay’s name is predicted to join the ranks of notable menswear designers in the coming years.
No comments:
Post a Comment