MARC JACOBS’ Spring/Summer collection was a love letter to 70’s New York; big hair, tiny shorts and lashings of hedonism.
The models glided around a giant wall of curved burnt gold, whilst Vivaldi’s “Summer” in G minor floated on the air, a surprising and provocative choice of music, given the collection. The Lexington Armory was alive with the spirit of the liberated Seventies. Newcomer Luisa Bianchin, was the first model to emerge from the cylindrical structure, with a mass of red frizz resting on her shoulders. Wearing an Eastern-inflected coat in a terracotta orange print, with belled sleeves and bow belt over a calf length violet skirt and a corsage in her hair, she set the tone for the vibrant show.
Think Saturday Night Fever, Jerry Hall and Bianca Jagger. Jacobs’ captures the spirit of the decade of disco. Heavily influenced by Yves Saint Laurent, he cited the New York Dolls and Antonio Lopez as inspirations. Essentially, this collection is a celebration of everything that made him fall in love with the industry.
Jacobs’ put the fun back into fashion with a handful of key larger-than-life pieces, overgrown corsages appeared in the hair, on the shoulder, at the waist and at the throat. Touches such as the enormous straw hats with the rims turned back, a la Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver, made the collection playful yet glamorous.
In homage to YSL, the catwalk was awash with suits. From a cropped butterscotch satin jacket and matching hot pants, to a sorbet pink satin suit with flared trousers, Jacobs’ presented a delicious selection of tailoring.
Focus was on the legs, with tiny hot pants and floaty dresses with slits high enough to show the models co-ordinating knickers. The shoulders also made a play for this season’s erogenous zone, with flesh-baring halter-necks, bandeaux and one-shouldered style dresses and jumpsuits.
The big trend that shone through is...BIG. The whole collection is over-the-top and lavish. Puffed sleeves, wide-legged trousers and voluminous calf length skirts gave the show a histrionic and nostalgic feel. Electric orange, rich plumb and a multitude of eastern spices made up the luxuriant colour palate, a stark contrast to his Autumn/Winter collection of muted and serene neutrals.
As ever, Jacob’s accessories did not disappoint. The models floated on glitter-dusted platform sandals, and clutched in their hands structured, envelope flap handbags in maroons, mustards and mauves.
The hair was so voluminous, Farah Fawcett herself would be proud. Models sported shoulder-length frizz, or more cropped neater curls, both of which would look at home in Studio 54. NARS presented a smoky emerald eye and lips were stained with a selection of berry shades in Volga Pure Matte Lipstick. Bleached eyebrows accentuated the dark eyes for a theatrical appearance.
Jacobs’ takes the Seventies vibe that has been infiltrating the catwalks for the last few seasons and makes it sexy. With sensuous chiffon, billowing skirts and vivid colours, this collection offers a delectable array of fun yet wearable pieces. Dust off your Bowie and your Bee Gee records, the Seventies are back...Marc my words.
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